Home gardening

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General Information

Problems with Orchids with their Remedies


Bud Drop
There are many reasons why buds fall off before flowering:
• Under or over watering.
• Temperature extremes and rapid temperature changes (heating vents, air conditioning blowing directly on the plant).
• Fumes from natural gas leaks, paint, other chemicals.
• Ethylene – high producers are apple, avocado, peach, pear, plum, melons, figs, and tomatoes.
• Low humidity.
• Genetics.
• Aphids, thrips and some mites.
• Changing growing location. If you want to change a plant’s location so that it will be enjoyed, wait until the flower opens first.

ants new pix



Ants can be responsible for infestations of more serious pests. Ants seldom cause any direct damage to orchids, rather they indicate the possibility of infestation by scale, mealybugs or aphids. To control ants it is usually adequate to remove the source of food that is attracting them so you must examine your plants and control the pests that attract ants. Some orchids, especially cymbidiums, produce sugary secretions on the flower spikes. In this case, the ants can be prevented from reaching the plants by setting the legs of the bench into tins partly filled with oil or soapy water, to make an ant-proof moat.

aphids 2

If you find evidence of aphids, scale, or mealybugs, you may try either straight 70% or 90% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol – touch the area with a soaked cotton swab, repeat every 3 days for about 2 weeks. If you want to use an insecticide while you have your plants outside you could use Baygon, Dursban, or Diazinon which have been used very effectively against ants. Spray the benches, bench legs, the floors, and walls where the ants can climb up to the plants. Avoid spraying on the flowers. Another tip is to use bay leaves around the point of entry and in the pots. Ants are repelled by bay leaves.


Aphids, Mealybugs and Scale Insects

Although mealy bugs can multiply rapidly, they are not difficult to control. The following advice has been provided by Paul J. Johnson of the Insect Research Collection of South Dakota State University :

Probably the most popular home remedy against this group of pests is to swab and daub plants with a cotton swab or ball of cotton dipped in isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Do not use other alcohols, such as ethanol or methanol, that will penetrate the plant tissues and cause considerable damage! The common 70% isopropyl alcohol available in sotres is satisfactory. On hard-leaved plants, gentle rubbing with the fingers, a cotton ball, or a soft infant’s toothbrush is effective.

First remove all the visible insects, large and small. Then treat the affected area with alcohol. With Scale insects and mealybugs you will still need to repeat the alcohol treatment to remove the tiny yellowish spots which are the recently hatched crawlers.

Spraying of alcohol solutions is not always effective against eggs which are often well-hidden, hence the need for thoroughness and repetition. Pay particular attention to the folds, crotches, branch bases, midrib areas, and roots. Spraying the alcohol with a misting bottle or small pump sprayer is effective, but dribbling alcohol into tight areas is necessary. Once hard scale is established, it can take several treatments to eradicate it.

A potential rare problem with alcohol treatment is chilling of the plant. The rapid evaporation of alcohol cools the plant tissues, especially with air movement that increases evaporative cooling. This chilling is suspected of over-cooling tissues and creating zones of dead cells that may become necrotic from bacteria or gungi. On warm or breezy days consider wiping any residual alcohol with a tissue instead of permitting it to evaporate off the plant. Such problems and tissue drying are found particularly on soft or thin-leafed orchids such as the Oncidium Alliance.

Isopropyl alcohol is readily available as rubbing alcohol in cosmetic and health areas at markets and pharmacies. It is normally sold as a 70% solution (90% is also available) and this may be diluted considerably for use against insects. One recipe for a 1.5 liter spray bottle is to mix a 50:50 solution of isopropyl alcohol and water, with a few drops to about a teaspoon of liquid soap to act as a spreader. Many home growers also mix in a small amount of mineral oil, neem oil, or one of the horticultural oils (a teaspoon of oil to a 1.5 liter sprayer). The actual proportions aren’t critical, it seems that every grower has their own proportions none of which seem to work significantly better than another. Caution is urged, however, as excessive amounts or too strong a detergent, or use of an ammonia-based chemical cleaner may damage your plants, particularly buds and flowers. This is particularly true of dishsoaps and household detergents that could remove natural protective waxes from plant tissues.

Ed Wright, a long-time orchid grower from San Antonio, Texas offers another useful home remedy that is very effective against most orchid pests. The recipe is 1 pint of 409 cleaner to 1 pint of rubbing alcohol (preferably 90%)and sufficient water to make 1 gallon of solution. This mixture is safe, stable and quite effective. It is used in the same manner as an alcohol/water mixture, either sprayed or swabbed.


new mites pix


Spider mite presence can also be recognized by the silvery, pitted areas on the undersides of leaves.

Two-spotted spider mites and flat mites are small and relatively delicate creatures. The easiest method for keeping mites under control is to regularly spray, or syringe, the plants with water. In the home placing your plants in a shower or using a sink sprayer is very effective. Mites are readily washed form the plants or are damaged by a heavy spray. In a greenhouse regular spraying and misting is often effective.

The 409/rubbing alcohol mixture suggested by Ed Wright can also be used to control mites. In this case, the solution can be used periodically to clean the foliage with a soft cloth. This should be followed by spraying the foliage with plain water to rinse away the cleaner residue.

Rots & Spots
Wet foliage and high humidity encourages the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases. Bacterial diseases do not respond to fungicides and vice versa so it’s very important to know which disease you are dealing with. Perhaps the easiest way to distinguish between the two is by smell. The most common bacterial disease in orchids produces a foul smell often likened to dead fish. If you’ve ever had cut flowers stand too long in water you know the sort of smell we’re talking about.

cold damage

Diseases can spread quickly! Bacterial diseases kill plants especially rapidly and time is of the essence. Both bacterial and fungal diseases are spread by splashing water and this includes rainfall. Use a clean cutting tool like a single-edge razor blade, cut off the infected tissue as well as at least an inch of clean, green area and then treat the cut surface with a fungicide. Even if the problem is bacterial, you don’t want a fungal infection to start in the wound. Cinnamon, yes the common spice, is effective against fungal diseases and this can be used to coat the cut surface as well. It’s perhaps not as effective as a chemical fungicide but it’s readily available and does work.
The most common fungal and bacterial rots encountered in orchids include:
Black Rot, a fungal disease characterized by soft, rotted areas that begin on leaves or new growth, then spread to rhizomes and roots. Infected areas are at first a purplish brown, then turn black. The outer margins of the infection site are yellowish.

black rot
Black rot can spread quickly through an orchid collection.
Root Rot, a fungal disease that usually enters the plant through the roots. Infected plants are stunted and wilted. Brown to black areas may extend from the roots into the rhizomes. As the disease advances, leaves will become twisted, wrinkled and yellowish.
Bacterial Brown Spot, a bacterial disease that begins as a sunken, water-soaked lesion on the leaf. Lesions will eventually turn brown or black and exude a dark liquid.

Bacterial rot is typified by a watery lesion on a leaf and is spread by splashing water

bacterial rot
Erwinia, a bacterial disease that begins as a water-soaked, chestnut to chartreuse legion on leaves or pseudobulbs. These legions exude a yellowish liquid with a characteristic foul smell. The disease is most prevalent on plants that are seriously stressed and is a very common problem in Phalaenopsis during hot, prolonged summers.

leaf spot

Leaf Spot, typically fungal diseases that start out as yellow areas on the undersides of leaves. As these spots develop they become visible on both sides of the leaf and turn brown or black.

Cercospora leaf spot on an Oncidium leaf.

Petal Blight, a common fungal disease favored by high humidity and cool conditions. The disease appears as small circular pink, gray or tan spots that appear on the open flowers. While this disease is not life-threatening to the plant, flowers infected are ruined and unsightly. The disease spreads by arial spores and good housekeeping is essential to control.

Sun Burn

Sunburn is usually caused by plants suddenly being exposed to much brighter light, such as the change of seasons can bring.

The sudden appearance of white or brown areas on leaves that dry and subsequently turn black may be sunburn. Sunburn, while not in itself a serious problem is irreversible and will make your plants look ugly. In serious cases the plant can be killed outright and any leaf damage is an invitation to a secondary infection in the damaged area.

Orchid foliage should be a light yellow-green. The first sign of too much light is often yellow foliage. If left alone, this yellow foliage will eventually turn white and then dark brown and dry as the sunburned area dries out. If the problem is caught before the chlorophyll has been completely destroyed it is often possible to reverse the damage. Once white spots or sunken areas have appeared, the damage is irreversible and the best thing one can do is stop further progression with more shade.


Although insect vectors can spread virus among orchids, the main cause is using contaminated tools to cut plants with.

Orchids, like people, are susceptible to viruses and today there is no cure. Just like with people, you may not necessarily be able to tell that a plant is infected with a virus. So whenever cutting on orchid plant always use a sterile tool to prevent the spread of virus. A disposable, straight-edged razor blade is a good tool to use for cutting leaves, flowers and old flower spikes (even dead leaves and old inflorescences can harbor virus). Use a new blade for each new plant. Pick up around your plant, pick up old leaves and dropped flowers.




How To Grow Spinach In The Home Garden


When it comes to vegetable gardening, spinach planting is a great addition. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) is a wonderful source of Vitamin A and one of the healthiest sources of so many minerals and nutrients that we can grow. When you think about how to grow spinach, think about which kind you’d like to grow. There is crinkled leaf spinach, plain leaf spinach and savoy spinach. All are wonderful in their own way.

How to Plant Spinach
One of the best tips for growing spinach I’ve received is to make sure to plant it early in the spring. How to plant spinach is to put it in the soil as soon as your garden space is ready. Spinach planting is done by planting the seeds directly outdoors, ½ inch deep. Another of the great tips for growing spinach is to plant about 12 to 15 seeds per foot of row to ensure plenty of spinach growth. Once your plants are at least 1 inch tall, start thinning your spinach plants to about 2-4 inches apart. Finally, one of the best tips for growing spinach is to make sure your rows are only 12 inches apart, which keeps weeds down to a minimum.


The best way I know for growing spinach is to do a planting every couple to every few weeks. This will yield fresh spinach all summer long. Because spinach is a leafy vegetable, you should always rinse the leaves before using. However, one thing about spinach planting you will love is that you don’t have to fertilize the ground before planting or during the growth phase. Spinach just doesn’t require it.


Harvesting or Picking Spinach
It really doesn’t take long for your spinach to fill out the rows; much like lettuce. Once you see five or six good leaves on a plant, go ahead and pick them. Fresh spinach is great mixed with lettuce in a salad or by itself in a spinach salad. You can wait until you have enough and cook them down as well. If you planted your spinach as suggested, you’ll be picking spinach all summer long and you shouldn’t run out of fresh spinach until the end of the growing season in late summer to early fall.

Fast Growing Vegetables – Learn About Vegetable Plants With Quick Growth



Here are some of the best vegetable plants with quick growth times:


Leaf lettuce – Ready in about 30 days. Not to be confused with head lettuce, leaf lettuce puts out individual leaves that can be harvested one at a time. After very little time, the leaves are big and plentiful enough to begin picking. The plant will continue to put out new leaves, too, which means this fast growing plant keeps on giving.

Radish – Ready in 20 to 30 days. Radishes are the king of fast growing vegetables. Their seeds sprout after just a few days, and the plants grow very quickly.



Spinach – Ready in about 30 days. Very similar to leaf lettuce, spinach plants continue to put out new leaves, and the first ones can be harvested just a month after planting the seeds. (These very early leaves are called baby spinach).


Bush beans – Ready in 50 days. Unlike the leafy plants in this list, bush beans have to grow an entire plant and then put out pods. That doesn’t slow them down very much, though. Bush beans are small, self-supporting plants, not to be confused with their slower growing pole bean cousins.


Arugula – Ready in 20 days. The little leaves of arugula have a sharp, bitter taste that goes great in salads.


Giving Potted Plants As Gifts


Giving potted plants as gifts is growing in popularity, and with good reason. Potted plants are rarely more expensive than cut flowers, but they last much longer. With the right kind of care, they can even last for years. That said, not all potted plants are good gift ideas and, unfortunately, not all potted plant gifts can be persuaded to bloom again.

Ideas for Potted Plant Gifts
When you’re looking to give flowering plants as gifts, you want to choose something that’s easy to care for. Unless you know your recipient to be an avid gardener who likes a challenge, you should opt for something that’s very low maintenance.

Remember, you want to give a decoration, not a responsibility. There are a few especially popular potted plant gifts that are known for their ease of care.


African violets are an excellent choice for low light, and they’ll keep flowering almost year round.

Clivia is a very hardy houseplant that blooms red and orange around Christmas and can last for years and years with little care.

Small herbs, like lavender and rosemary, are the whole package: easy to care for, fragrant, and useful.


Potted Plants vs. Cut Flowers
If you’ve been given flowering plants as gifts, you may be at a loss as to what to do with them. Cut flowers, of course, will only last so long and then must be tossed. Most potted plants, however, can be replanted in the garden or left to grow in their pots.


Unfortunately, some potted plants, like mums, are likely to last only one season.
Flowering bulb plants, like tulips and hyacinths, can be saved for years. After they’re done blooming, place the pots outdoors or in a sunny window and keep watering them. They won’t bloom again this season, but the foliage will continue to grow. Later, when the foliage withers and yellows naturally, cut it off and dig up the bulbs.

Dry them in a cool dark place and store them until the fall, when you can plant them in another pot or directly in your garden. They should come up naturally in the spring.

Azaleas and African violets can be kept in their pots to bloom for years. Hydrangeas, lily of the valley, and begonias can be transplanted out into the garden.


Waling-waling orchid (Vanda Sanderiana) – New Philippines’ National Flower


Why should Waling-waling orchid be declared as a national flower in the Philippines?
Waling-waling is not only indigenous but also endemic to the Philippines compared to the Sampaguita, a native plant from India and Arabia.

Over thousand of orchids species thrive in the Philippines. They’re known for their exotic beauty.
Waling-waling is known as the best orchid variety in the Philippines. It usually lives in the tropical forest of Mount Apo in Davao and Zamboanga del Sur.

Waling-waling is described as the “Queen of Philippine Orchids”. It’s the most beautiful and the rarest orchid. It becomes the most wanted flower in Mindanao for its colorful and large variety. Waling-waling usually grows in tree trunks in the rainforests of Davao, Sultan Kudarat and other parts of Mindanao.


It blooms once a year, between the month of July and October. Due to its high demand and value, it has brought into near-extinction.

Waling-waling is also very popular in Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong and Hawaii which makes it one of the world’s famous orchids.

Some important facts about Waling-waling:

• The native Bagobo people worshipped the Waling-waling as a diwata.
• It has two forms: pink and white.
• It’s usually used in hybridization.
• Waling-waling orchid bears flowers early when raised at high altitude, according to studies.



Rose Traditions & Meanings: Long Stemmed Roses

Long stemmed roses carry a deep meaning and are often the most desired and appreciated type of rose. A bouquet of long stemmed roses signifies, “I will remember you always.” A single long stemmed rose imparts a message of simplicity, such as “I love you” or “Thank you.”

The elegant appearance of the long stemmed rose has made it one of the most popular flowers in existence. As the classic symbol for love, long stemmed red roses have become the preferred choice for romantic occasions. Long stemmed roses are also available in a variety of other colors, which makes them a fitting gift for a multitude of occasions. Their long, rigid stems make them ideal for arrangement and presentation in a vase, which has helped them become the favored rose for most cut flower arrangements.
Long stemmed roses, as we know them today, are typically variants of a classification of rose known as the Hybrid Tea. These roses originated in the 1800’s when, for the first time, roses newly introduced from China were cross-bred with European roses. The results were so revolutionary that the advent of the Hybrid Tea rose is generally regarded as the turning point between Old Garden Roses and Modern Roses.


These long stemmed roses with large single blooms combined the pleasing scent of the tea rose with the ability to bloom repeatedly throughout the year. They also introduced a whole new range of colors to the palette. They quickly grew in popularity and are now the roses most often used to express our heart-felt sentiments to our loved ones.

Long stemmed roses are special because of the meanings we associate with them. They carry a wealth of significance that adds to their already impressive appearance. The traditional message of a bouquet of long stemmed roses is, “I will remember you always.” They can also be used to communicate to someone, “I still love you.” And of course, a bouquet of long stemmed red roses is the ultimate expression of true love. They can represent a love that runs deep and is long-lasting. A long stem rose bouquet can express that extra bit of love and gratitude to someone who is extra special.



Say it with Single Rose : Learn Its Meaning too

A single Rose says a lot and a lot more distinctly. Find out it what it says in different colors.

single rose


A single red rose says: “I love you” and “You’re the only one for me”.


single white

A single white rose says: “My feelings are pure”


single yellow

A single yellow rose says: “You bring joy to my life” “Let’s be friends”


single pink

A single pink rose says: “I like you”


single orange

A single orange rose says: “I am proud of you”


single peach

A single peach rose says: “Thank you” “I sympathize with you”


single lavender

A single lavender rose says: “I am enchanted by you”


single blue

A single blue rose says: “You seem like an unattainable dream”


A crown of roses indicates reward of virtue


A bouquet of roses in full bloom indicates gratitude

roses in tuft grass
Rose in a tuft of grass indicates there is everything to be gained by good company.

Growing Vanda Orchids

Vanda 3s

The Vanda Orchid is not very different from the Ascocenda orchid and the Phalaenopsis orchid or the Moth Orchid as it is fondly thought of. All these orchid species are totally tropical. The Vanda orchids are no more difficult to grow than other orchids, but they do have special cultural needs if you want to bring out the best in this orchid species. The Vanda orchids originated from the warm islands of the South Pacific. Places like Malaysia, Thailand, Borneo and the Philippines are home, natural home, to these orchid species. These sympodial epiphytic orchids prefer full sun exposure and thus like bright light, warm temperatures, and lots of humidity. They have long, trailing roots that draw moisture and nutrients from the atmosphere.

The Vanda orchid, or the Vandaceous orchid to give its proper name, has become so popular since they are an excellent orchid species that lends itself to hybridization with several other orchid species. It has been used in so many successful hybridizations. Any mention of the Vanda orchid is not complete without mentioning the Vanda sanderiana (also known as the Euanthe sanderiana).

This is a truly beautiful orchid that bears bright pink and maroon orchid flowers that have spectacularly long-lasting characteristics. Another spectacular example of the Vanda orchid hybridization is the Vanda Rothschildiana x Vanda Coerulea, which is possibly the bluest of all orchid flowers with heavy contrasts of white. The orchid flowers itself are saucer-sized, flat blooms with an extremely heavy substance and a crystalline texture that glistens in the light.

two vanda varieties
These days the Vanda orchid is grown widely around the world, in Durban (South Africa), in the Netherlands, and in Florida (USA) despite the fact that they are rather unwilling to flower in climates other than their natural habitat. The fact that there are many successful hybridization of this orchid species accounts for the widespread occurrence of this orchid species. The wide range of colors which includes some fairly good blues and browns has added greatly to their popularity.

The Vanda orchid comes in yellow, orange, scarlet, deep purple and bright fuchsia orchid flowers. There are many size variations and some of these orchid flowers sport exotic markings or can be covered with spots or stripes. Many Vanda orchids have a powerful fragrance. The inflorescences appear from the axis of the leaves. The orchid flowers are long lasting and appear in a cluster along the spike. I just need to add that these orchids have long lasting flowers on the plant and not when used as cut flowers.

vanda white

Like most tropical orchids, the Vanda orchid prefers warm temperatures with plenty of air movement. These orchids will continue to grow anytime of the year if given warm temperatures, plenty of light and even full exposure to the sun. They require high temperatures in summer and winter. These orchids will perish if exposed to frost or cold for long periods if grown outside in your home orchid garden.

Even if you cultivate your orchid plants indoors, you need to ensure that your Vanda orchids are kept at the optimal temperature where they will thrive. In cooler areas the orchid plant will go into a dormant state during winter. This dormancy is not to the orchid plant’s detriment because it in most cases result in bigger and better flowers. The ideal temperature range for the Vanda orchid is a low of 15° Celsius (59° Fahrenheit) in winter and a summer high of 32° Celsius (98° Fahrenheit). The Vanda orchids are capable of tolerating higher and lower temperatures for short periods only.

All Vanda orchids require light. Too little light will result in lanky and soft orchid plants. If you are cultivating these orchids at home be sure to make use of 20 to 30 percent shade cloth. The Vanda orchid is fast growing and therefore prefer high light levels. A covered roof is even better since you can then protect the Vanda orchid with its blooms from the harsh rain and winds.

vanda yellow

Water and humidity
The Vanda orchid or the Vandaceous orchid loves water. Watering the Vanda orchid should happen on a daily basis in slightly drier but warm climates. In true tropical warm weather fashion, the Vanda orchid requires water and high humidity.

You also need to keep in mind that the Vanda orchid also likes to be cooled by a constant breeze. This makes air movement vital to the successful cultivation of Vanda orchids. Stagnant air can result in fungal and bacterial rot.

All Vandaceous orchids are heavy feeders. You should provide them with a high nitrogen orchid fertilizer such as 30:10:10 in spring to shake it up after its winter dormancy. During the summer you should follow the feeding schedule with a general fertilizer and a good bloom booster in autumn. There is no need to feed your Vanda orchid during the winter, but if you intend to keep your orchid plants warm during winter then you can continue to feed to orchid plant. In excessively cool weather winter feeding would be wasteful. (Tip: Always water before fertilizing.)

Pests and Diseases
The Vanda orchid is not particularly susceptible to pests or disease. In the event of scale insects being detected, as wiping the surface of the leaves with methylated spirits on a cotton bud and following up with a systemic spray should stop the problem. Always try to steer clear of chemical as it is the least recommended route of treatment for infected Vanda orchids. Only treat bad infestations with chemicals.

vanda orange

Potting mix and Repotting
It is known that the Vanda orchid may grow to be very large plants. They normally grow best suspended in wooden baskets and require warm growing conditions with plenty of bright light. Thus the potting of the Vanda orchid is referred to as Basket Culture. These orchid plants are air-loving plants and they do not require any media in which to be cultivated. A wooden slated basket is ideal. From seedling stage the orchid plant should be secured to the base of the wooden basket with wire so as to prevent them from moving around.

blue vanda

Before you know it the orchid plant will develop into a young plant that will attach itself to the basket and produce several roots. As time passes the Vanda orchids will grow and ‘repotting’ can be when you simply place the smaller basket into a bigger basket until the plants are too big to handle. Then you should consider cutting the orchid plant back and replant them in baskets of a more suitable, manageable size.

One major advantage of basket culture for the Vanda orchid is that they are less prone to pick up fungal and bacterial diseases.

General tips for Vanda Orchid care

If the Vanda orchid is grown as a houseplant, they appreciate spending the warmer months outside. They like bright light, but the leaves will burn if they go directly from indoor conditions to full sunlight. The Vanda orchid needs less water in the fall and winter but may be watered most mornings in the summer, especially when grown outside under trees.

Vanda orchids are very rewarding. The new hybrids are free blooming and usually flower several times a year. Vanda orchid flowers are long lasting on the plant but do not last well when cut.
Vanda orchids are often grown outdoors in hanging baskets during the summer months. The Vanda orchid is a heavy feeder and should be fed a balanced fertilizer often.

Source: Orchidkingdom

Orchid Growing Tips: How To Take Care Of Orchid Plants Indoors


Orchids are some of the most commonly grown houseplants. Provided they have proper growing conditions, it isn’t difficult to learn how to take care of orchid plants. Keep reading to get some indoor orchid care tips.
How Do I Take Care of an Orchid Flower?
Care of indoor orchid plants is easy once you learn how to grow them properly. These interesting flowers can be found in a range of colors and sizes depending on the variety. They make excellent accent plantings to nearly any home décor. Orchids require little care once all their basic needs are met such as light, temperature, and humidity.

two vanda varieties

Orchid Growing Tips
Most orchids require moist, well-draining conditions. There are several types of growing media that can be used with orchid plants—redwood or fir bark, sphagnum peat moss, rocks, cork, charcoal, sand, potting soil, etc. A basic mix for growing orchids consists of coarse perlite, fir bark, and sphagnum moss. You can also add charcoal but this is optional. Generally, the grade of bark is dependent on the type of orchid grown. For instance, phalaenopsis orchids are usually grown in coarse bark, cattleyas in medium bark, and young orchid plants are best grown in fine bark.

Orchids require shallow planting. Place orchids in an east to south-facing window or room. These plants prefer bright, indirect light. Insufficient light results in poor flowering. However, too much light can lead to leaf scorch.
Temperature is also important for indoor orchid care. While orchids tolerate cooler or warmer temperatures throughout their normal growing season, they need to be about 15 degrees cooler at night than during the day in order to bloom sufficiently.

indoor vase

Indoor Orchid Care Tips
Orchids need ample water but should be allowed to dry out some between watering. One way to check for watering is by poking your finger about an inch into the growing media. If it’s dry, give it some water; otherwise, let it be.

Indoor orchid plants also need adequate humidity, about fifty to seventy percent. There are various ways to increase the humidity in your home. Place a water-filled saucer or tray of pebbles beneath plants, mist plants daily, or use a humidifier.
Fertilize orchids weekly or bi-weekly while they are producing new growth and decrease to monthly or bi-monthly intervals once they mature. Discontinue altogether once the plants go dormant.
Additional orchid care tips include re-potting, which is normally done every other year. If your orchids suddenly stop blooming but have suitable light, temperature, and humidity, then re potting may be necessary.
Also keep an eye out for signs of pests or disease. Orchids are occasionally affected by mealybugs, scale, and aphids. These can usually be washed off or treated with insecticidal soap.

Source: Gardeningknowhow

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